By SUBURBAN GUY
I have simple tastes. I like cheap lunches that have flavor and are filling. I’m a big guy, so satisfying my hunger isn’t easy. And even though I look for a bargain, especially in these tough times, taste matters.
So when the Suburban Gal suggested we try the JP Thornton’s, a made-to-order sandwich spot that just expanded to a new location on Broadway, I jumped at the chance.
At its old spot, across from Amato’s on Broadway, Thornton’s sold ample subs to go, as well as quality steaks from its butcher shop.
I immediately started thinking about a cheese steak sub for lunch, as we headed to Thornton’s. I like to judge a take-out sub shop by its steak-and-cheese sandwiches. There must be plenty of shaved steak, not too greasy, with American cheese softly melted throughout. The bread needs to be fresh, crusty on the outside and soft and chewy inside. I’ll usually throw mushrooms into the mix, and sometimes peppers and onions for the full “steak bomb” effect.
Thornton’s is still on Broadway but in a new shopping center, along with Freaky Bean and SuperCuts. The walk-up counter service is popular with locals. JP Thornton’s offers “comfort food,” as it’s called in fancier joints across the bridge.
Inside the new store, I checked out the printed menu at the long counter. JP Thornton’s definitely has more room here, with one long counter for coffee and another for ordering lunch. And the bar and sit-down restaurant haven’t even opened yet.
Other menu items tempted me—pastrami-and-Swiss sandwich, a meatball sub and the brick-oven pizza.
But I stayed with my instincts and went for the steak, with some mushrooms on top.
It turned out to be a good choice, with one minor disappointment. The sandwich itself was big enough—I ordered the large, at $6.59. It was served cut in half, with a slice of dill pickle on the side. The bread was fantastic. Instead of the standard crusty-from-the-oven Italian bread, this was a butter-soft, fresh roll that had been slightly grilled. There’s was just enough steak stuffed inside. I wouldn’t say it was piled on, but the amount was respectable.
The shaved meat and melted cheese were an appetizing tangle of flavor.
The beef was lean, hot and not tough. It wasn’t greasy or too salty, as some subs. There was no aftertaste.
My only gripe? No mushrooms. Or, at least that’s what I thought at first glance and bite.
I found out when I went back to the counter, sandwich in hand, that the mushrooms were there—just small, thinly sliced and scant. I prefer big slices of mushroom. I don’t want to have to hunt them down either. Picking through the meat, my wife and I dug up a few morsels. Satisfied I returned to eating.
And what happened to that forgotten adage: the customer is always right? It would have been nice for the folks behind the counter to have perhaps acknowledged my complaint with a smile and a few more mushrooms, rather than simply pointing out the mushrooms mixed in with the meat.
The Suburban Gal had no complaints with her lunch—an eggplant parmesean sub, a special for $5.99. She chooses vegetarian when she can, so this was right up her alley. The eggplant was thickly sliced, fresh and covered in a crunchy crust. Too often breaded eggplant tastes as if the slices came prepared and frozen. The de-thawing and frying produce soggy disappointments. But this was not the case here. The crust was extra crispy, almost crunchy, and tasted homemade. The eggplant held its firmness. Her sandwich, eggplant, sauce and cheese, also was served on the same European-style bread that was grilled.
We split a bag of chips and a couple of drinks—milk for her, Lemonade for me. The bill was about $15—reasonable for the quality of the food. Overall, it was a good lunch, easily equal to other lunch counters in town and better than many. I was satisfied and happy. I didn’t need dessert, although there was a homemade blueberry pastry at the counter that looked pretty good.
Afterward, the Suburban Gal and I walked to the new Freaky Bean for coffees. This section of Broadway now includes Beale Street BBQ, as well as Thornton’s and Freaky Bean. It’s quite the casual food destination—closer than the Mall and not nearly so crowded. The Suburban Gal and I will head back here soon. Next time, I’ll try the brick-oven pizza. Thornton’s plans to open a bar and grill next door to the take-out shop. By the time I’m back for pizza, I may be able to order a sit-down meal with a few ice-cold beers. Now that’s a lunch.